I did the final sanding on the OOO body and neck, and then did some pore filling. I got the body filled, sanded, and a second filler layer on and dried. I also got the first filler application on the neck. I am waiting for them to dry overnight before I sand it down. One disturbing thing I noticed is that there were several spots where the LMI glue got on the rosewood, and I sanded/washed it off but it still shows up when the filler goes on it. After the first application, I sanded the areas thoroughly to get the glue all out, and then wetted it with naphtha. It looked clean but as soon as the filler goes on, the glue stains show up again. I am not sure what to do about it. I will sand them again so hopefully they will go away. I sure hope they don't show up when the finish goes on. That would be a major problem. I mentioned this before, but although the LMI glue works well, holds tight and seems to be very hard, it also is a real bear to get off of wood with pores in it. It sure would be nice if they could make the glue without the white coloring in it. I have had a lot of trouble with this particular glue actually drying clear. If it is thick it dries clear, but if it is thin it stays white. I am debating on going back to titebond for gluing the body and bindings, and using the LMI glue for braces, neck, neck set, and the bridge. I have also toyed with the idea of trying my hand at hot hide glue.
Here is the new back and side set. It is camatillo rosewood. Really some wild looking stuff isn't it! Looking at the sides, it would be kind of cool if I could get the sap wood to line up with the upper and lower bouts, and have the dark wood in the waist. Oh, and this wood in dry, no wetting to show the grain. It really pops a lot more when it is wet.
There is the top. Bearclaw sitka spruce. It doesn't look quite a figured as my OM top was, but it still has some nice figuring to it. One thing I messed up on this order was that I forgot to have LMI thickness sand the top. I guess my RO sander is going to get a workout on this one!
Here is the OOO after the second application of pore filler. The wood really looks nice when it is wet with the filler. It kind of gives me a sneak preview of what the finished guitar will look like.
The neck after the first application of pore filler. I think I am going to stain this neck to try and match the dark rosewood color. The main reason is that I don't like seeing the glue lines for the heel blocks. The glueup was very tight, but the lines are still visible. That is another issue I have with the LMI glue it is quite visible on glue lines. I have a very visible center line on the light colored Adirondack top that I am not very happy with. Unfortunately, there isn't anything I can do about it.
2 comments:
Wow that is fantastic looking wood. It is going to be so hard to trim that sap wood off. Darn guitars having those curves - it would be so much better looking if you could keep that rectangle shape.
Why are you going with the heat blanket this time around. Are/were you not very happy with the bending machine - I was going to copy your process.
You've got that many guitars on the go now - I am losing track.
I like the bender I have, but I have found the heating to be fairly uneven. There is probably a 15 - 20 deg F difference from the waist, to the upper and lower bouts. In order to get the upper bout hot enough to bend, the waist gets too hot and scorches. Also, the bulbs take a very long time to heat up. Since most builders seem to be using blankets and the have much greater control on the bends, I figured I might as well try that too. My thinking is that I will still use the bulbs on the bottom, and the blanket on the top. That will evenly heat the wood from both sides and should make it bend easier. I am not so worried about these easy to bend woods, but I am thinking forward to when I step up to a hard to bend wood.
As far as trimming the sap wood off, I am going to try and keep as much as I can. I want to keep the sap wood on the sides, and hopefully some of the stuff on outside of the back upper and lower bouts.
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