I decided to start with the most difficult neck first so I could get it over with. This is the one I mentioned last time where the neck block ended up slightly tilted. It took a lot of time but I finally got the neck straight, with a good back angle and a fairly nice joint. The joint will need to be cleaned up as I have a few small gaps in it, but it is good enough for now so I can get top sanded. One thing I have learned about these Sapele necks, the wood is hard, splintery, and the neck joint is very hard to sand. The typical 'flossing' method takes a very long time to remove the smallest amount of wood. I guess this is a good thing, but it took a long time for me to get this neck set. Hopefully the next one will go easier. I have two more Sapele neck blanks on my shelf that I will probably use, but they will probably be the last ones I get for a while.
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This is the first guitar with the neck temporarily set. It took a lot of work to get this one lined up and at the correct angle because of the neck block error, and the difficulty of this wood to work with.
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The right side of the neck joint. You can see a small gap right at the top. there is also a gap at the tail, but that is getting cut off for the heel cap so I am not worried about it.
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Here is a closeup of the fingerboard end at the sound hole. I know, a lot of guys like to build the fingerboard so it lines up right along the edge of the sound hole. I personally don't care for that look. I decided to line it up just under the bottom perfling strip so there is still a line of spruce between the dark fingerboard, and the darkness of the sound hole. I did both of the guitars this way.
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